The north and south summits are the two pyramids that make up the Nirekha Peak climb. Although easier to reach, the North Summit involves navigating a narrow chasm. The South Summit is a challenging part of the journey, with an inclination of up to 50° on steep ice. Which of the two summits is higher is not evident. Though it calls for technical gear like ice axes, crampons, ice screws, jumar, and some fixed rope portions, the ascent is reasonably simple. Since reaching the top of Nirekha demands considerable technical mountaineering skills, only experienced climbers should attempt it. It is a physically demanding ascent for all climbers in excellent physical condition who are looking for an amazing adventure.
At Nirekha Peak, there are two climbing routes: the first begins at Kangshung Base Camp (5250 m) and takes approximately 9 hours, while the second begins at Lake Base Camp (5050 m) and takes approximately 11 hours. We recommend approaching from the Kangshung side because it is a shorter and easier climb. The ascent primarily takes place on snow and ice, requiring the ascent of steep ice slopes and the traversal of deep glacial crevasses.
From the Chola Pass Base Camp, a narrow trail leads north, and Nirekha Base Camp is located immediately before the glacier. The Kangshung glacier, with only a few small but safe crevasses, is quite safe to traverse up to Cho La Col. Base Camp and High Camp is a two- to three-hour walk away. The climbing route, which ascends the southwest wall, is composed of strong blue ice. There are several deep crevasses and a long hike up the Nirekha summit ridge.
Even if the elevation difference is minimal, the mountain demands exceptional physical fitness and acclimatization. From the summit, you have views of one of the most breathtaking Himalayan vistas. From the summit, you can see Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Yu, Gyachung Kang, Pumori, Makalu, Khang Tega, Thamserku, Tawoche, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and many other peaks.
Expected Cost, Itinerary, and Best Season for Nirekha Peak
Nirekha Peak 20 days is for you if you are an adventure, challenge, and mountain climbing enthusiast. The average cost for an individual to climb Mount Nirekha is between $4500 and $5500. For a one-month valid climbing permit, the Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA) costs $250 per person in the spring, $125 per person in the fall, and $70 per person in the winter and summer.
Springtime (March to May) is the ideal time to explore the Nirekha peak in all of its splendor when the mountain is shrouded in a haze. That's when the magnificent rhododendrons bloom. The stark beauty of the Himalayas is reflected in the pink and crimson blossoms on the trees. The constancy of the weather and the clarity of the air are two remarkable aspects of springtime. In the mountains, daytime highs can approach +15. The second ideal period is during the fall, from September until the beginning of December when visibility and air quality are better. Precipitation decreases as a result of the mountains creating steady weather. Rain is still possible, but by the evening, the snow has usually melted entirely and the night sky is full of stars to fascinate you.
Even though the top is available in the summer (June to August) and winter (late December to February), these seasons are not ideal due to the daytime temperature swings of 7 to 15 degrees Celsius. The temperature will welcome you to zero at night. Summer is the monsoon season when heavy, never-ending rain falls. The north summit and the south summit are the two summit pyramids that make up the summit. Although easier to reach, the North Summit involves navigating a narrow chasm to reach. There is a hard portion of the journey up to 50° steep ice on the South Summit, which is inclination. Which of the two summits is higher is not evident. Though it calls for technical gear like ice axes, crampons, ice screws, jumar, and some fixed rope portions, the ascent is reasonably simple. Since reaching the top of Nirekha demands considerable technical mountaineering skills, only experienced climbers should attempt it. For all climbers in good physical condition who are looking for an amazing adventure, it is a physically challenging ascent.
At Nirekha Peak, there are two climbing routes: the first begins at Kangshung Base Camp (5250m) and takes approximately 9 hours, while the second begins at Lake Base Camp (5050m) and takes approximately 11 hours. Since the climb is shorter and easier, it is recommended to approach from the Kangshung side. The majority of the ascent is done on snow and ice, and it involves climbing steep ice slopes and traversing deep glacial crevasses.
A narrow trail leads north from the Chola Pass Base Camp, and Nirekha Base Camp is located immediately before the glacier. With only a few small but safe crevasses, the glacier on the Kangshung side is quite safe up to Cho La Col. Base Camp and High Camp are a two to three-hour walk away. The climbing route is composed of strong blue ice and climbs up the southwest wall. There are several deep crevasses and a long hike up the Nirekha summit ridge.
Even if the elevation difference is minimal, the mountain demands exceptional physical fitness and acclimatization. From the summit, you have views of one of the most breathtaking Himalayan vistas. Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Cho Yu, Gyachung Kang, Pumori, Makalu, Khang Tega, Thamserku, Tawoche, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and many more peaks can be seen from the summit.