Mount Everest expedition south ridge summit from Nepal, which stands 29,035 feet (8,848 meters) above sea level and straddles the boundary between Tibet and Nepal, is the world's tallest mountain. The peak is referred to as Sagarmartha in Nepalese, which means "The Head in the Great Blue Sky," and Chomolungma in Tibetan, which means "Mother Goddess of the World." The mountain has a long history of ascent because it has a spiritual allure. Over the previous 100 years or so, hundreds of expeditions have built two main routes from the Everest base to the summit: the South Col Route.
- Scale the world's tallest mountain.
- This is a fully guided expedition with maximum oxygen levels.
- The expedition leader is UIAGM/IFMGA certified, and there is a 1:1 Sherpa guide-to-client ratio.
- Ascend Lobuche East to become acclimated.
South Col Route is the preferred ridge for the Everest Expedition.
Trekking to Base Camp at 5,380 meters (17,700 feet) on the Nepalese side of the Everest expedition is the first step in the ascent over the southeast ridge. Typically, Everest expeditions leave Kathmandu and fly into Lukla (2,860 m), passing through Namche Bazaar. After that, climbers travel for six to eight days to Base Camp, which gives them enough time to properly acclimate to the altitude and avoid altitude sickness. Yaks, Dzopkyos (yak-cow hybrids), and human porters transport supplies and climbing equipment to Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier. Since there were no roads further east when Hillary and Tenzing climbed Everest in 1953, the British expedition they were a part of—which included over 400 climbers, porters, and Sherpas at the time—started from the Kathmandu Valley.
Climbers spend a few weeks in Base Camp acclimating to the altitude. During the risky Khumbu Icefall, sherpas, and Icefall doctors used ropes and ladders.
The icefall is one of the riskiest parts of the path because of its seracs, crevasses, and shifting slabs of ice. This area has seen numerous climbers and shepherds lose their lives. To lessen the risk, climbers typically start their ascent well before daylight, when the cold temperatures cement ice blocks in place.
At 6,065 meters (19,900 feet), Camp I is located above the icefall.
Climbers moving across the Khumbu Icefall
Climbers ascend the Western Cwm from Camp I to the base of the Lhotse face, where Camp II, also known as Advanced Base Camp (ABC), is situated at 6,500 meters (21,300 feet). Huge lateral crevasses in the middle of the flat, gently ascending glacial valley, known as the Western Cwm, obstruct direct access to the Cwm's upper reaches. On the extreme right, close to Nuptse's base, climbers must traverse a narrow path known as the "Nuptse Corner." The Western Cwm is also known as the "Valley of Silence" due to its unique geography, as the wind frequently obstructs the climbing route. On a clear, windless day, climbers may find the Western Cwm scorching due to its high altitude.
From Camp II to Camp III, situated at 7,470 meters (24,500 feet) on a narrow ledge, climbers use fixed ropes to scale the Lhotse face. Camp IV, situated at 7,920 meters (26,000 feet) on the South Col, is 500 meters away.
Climbers encounter two further obstacles between Camp III and Camp IV: the Geneva Spur and the Yellow Band. Climbers can scramble across this area of snow-covered rock with the help of fixed ropes. Interlayered semi-schist, phyllite, and marble make up the Yellow Band, which requires around 100 meters of rope to traverse.
On the South Col, climbers enter the deadly zone. Usually, climbers who are attempting a summit can only stay here for two or three days. If the weather is not clear with low winds, climbers must descend during these brief few days; many will have to return to Base Camp.
Climbers start their summit push from Camp IV at midnight in the hopes of arriving at the top—which is still 1,000 meters above—in ten to twelve hours. Climbers initially arrive at "The Balcony" at 8,400 meters (27,600 feet), a tiny platform where they can take a break and enjoy the first light of dawn while staring at peaks to the east and south. After ascending the ridge, climbers encounter a sequence of formidable rock steps that typically push them eastward into waist-deep snow, offering a significant risk of an avalanche. The South Summit is 8,750 meters (28,700 feet) high, with a little ice and snow dome the size of a table.
Climbers make the "Cornice traverse"—a route that follows the knife-edge southeast ridge from the South Summit, where snow clings to sporadic rock. This is the most treacherous section of the climb; a left turn leads down the southwest face at 2,400 meters (7,900 feet), while a right turn leads directly to the Kangshung Face at 3,050 meters (10,010 feet). At 8,790 meters (28,840 feet), the Hillary Step, an impressive 12-meter (39-foot) granite wall, awaits you at the end of this traverse.
Hillary and Tenzing were the first climbers to reach the top of this step, and they used crude ropes and ice-climbing equipment. Sherpas previously installed fixed ropes, which climbers now use to ascend this step. On moderately sloped snow slopes, climbing above the step is quite easy; nonetheless, the exposure on the ridge is severe, particularly while navigating big snow cornices. As more and more people ascend the mountain in recent years, the step has frequently developed into a bottleneck, causing climbers to have to wait a long time for their turn on the ropes. This has slowed climbers' moves up and down the mountain. Climbers must also navigate a loose, rocky area with a vast tangle of fixed ropes after the Hillary Step, which can be problematic in inclement weather. Less than 30 minutes is usually all that climbers stay at the top to make it down to Camp IV before nightfall, to avoid severe afternoon weather, or in case their supplemental oxygen tanks run out.