People of Jomsom are predominantly Buddhist, and their faith deeply influences their everyday lives. Jomsom is home to a mix of ethnic groups, including the Gurung, Thakali, and Lopa peoples. The Thakali, the original inhabitants of the region, have their own distinct culture and language. They are known for their strong connection to traditions and customs that have been passed down through generations. The Thakali people are warm and hospitable, often inviting visitors to join in their daily activities, such as farming and cooking. Jomsom is also notable for its shamanistic beliefs and practices.
The region's architecture is another unique aspect of Jomsom. Traditional homes are constructed from stone and mud, adorned with intricate wood carvings and brightly painted doors and windows. One of the key cultural events is Yartung, an annual horse racing festival that spans a week. This Tibetan-influenced celebration features thrilling races between horses and men, making it a must-see activity for anyone visiting Jomsom.
Jomsom provides visitors with a variety of unique experiences.
Mustang Eco Museum
Established in 1992, the Mustang Eco Museum showcases various aspects of the culture and natural environment of the Mustang region. It features displays on Buddhist monasteries, herbariums, animal specimens, traditional attire, and artwork. Additional attractions include panoramic views of Jomsom, Thini village, and Mt. Nilgiri, guided tours inside the museum, a library, and video presentations on Mustang, Tibet, and Nepal, along with information about KMTNC-ACAP activities. The museum is a five-minute walk south of the airport.
Jomsom Village
Located just a ten minute walk from the airport, Jomsom Village offers a glimpse into traditional village life, with opportunities to observe local customs in the fields surrounding the area. In the northeastern part of the village, you can find Jomsom Bon Monastery. Bon is believed to have existed in Tibet before Buddhism, and this monastery, established by Tulku Tempa around 1938, is affiliated with Lubra Gompa. The monastery houses idols of Bon deities like Walsa and Trakpo, and its walls are adorned with Bon-style paintings.
Thini Village
30 minute walk from Jomsom leads to Thini Village, one of the oldest villages in the Panch Gaun (five villages) region. The village's name comes from the Tibetan word "Thin," meaning base or root. Historically, Thini was a key village ruled by King Thang Mig Chen, and other villages had to pay tribute to it. The village still preserves the Kot Ghar, an arsenal housing old weaponry, and serves as a gateway to Tilicho Lake, a two-day trek away. Thini also hosts several festivals, including Thini Bhadra in August/September and Bhomo Ama, a major 15-day festival held every 12 years, last celebrated in 2017. The village’s Bonpo Gompa is affiliated with Lubra Gompa and contains idols of Bon deities.
Kuchup Terenga Gompa
Located above Dhumba Lake, Kuchup Terenga Gompa is about a 90-minute walk from Jomsom or Syang. A Nyingma-Pa sect monastery founded in the 17th century by Lama Lhungjing Urgen Palsang, it aims to promote Buddhism and maintain peace in Dhumba village. The monastery holds sacred religious significance in Mustang and displays idols of Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava), Hopang Me (Amitabha), Chengresi, and Phapa Jhempal. The walls are adorned with beautiful murals, and in October or November, visitors might witness Dhekep, a masked dance performed by the monks. The monastery offers panoramic views of Marpha, Syang, Thini, and Jomsom villages.
Dhumba Lake
An hour’s walk from Jomsom or Syang leads to Dhumba Lake, which holds historical and religious significance due to its connection with Kuchup Terenga Gompa. The lake’s fish are considered sacred and are not consumed, but raised for religious purposes. The lake’s holy water is used for offerings in monastery rituals. Syangba Rimpoche II once conducted a spiritual ceremony here, burying a bottle filled with grains and valuable metals.
Gharab Dzong
A 45 minute walk from Jomsom via Thini Village brings you to Gharab Dzong, the ruins of an ancient fort built by King Thang Mig Chen. Preliminary research suggests the fort dates back to the 16th century and was inhabited until the 19th century. From here, visitors can enjoy stunning views of Mt. Nilgiri, Tilicho Peak, Yak Kawa, Mesokanto La, Mt. Dhaulagiri, and Dhumba Lake, as well as the surrounding villages of Samle, Thini, Jomsom, Puthang, and Syang.
Syang Village
A 30 minute walk from Jomsom leads to Syang Village, one of the oldest and most picturesque villages in the Panch Gaun region. Inhabited by Thakalis of Tibetan origin, Syang is home to two monasteries: Syang Gompa (Tashi Lha Khang) and Ani Gompa (Dhi Che Ling). Syang Gompa, a Nyingma-Pa sect monastery, features three large images of Chengresi, Guru Rimpoche (Padmasambhava), and Toma, and also hosts Dhekep performances in October or November. Ani Gompa, a renowned Buddhist nunnery, is associated with the Nyingma-Pa sect and contains idols of Dolmo, Chyukchirol, Amitabha (Red Buddha), and other Buddhist deities. Both monasteries feature beautiful wall paintings.
Jomsom Airport
Jomsom Airport sits at an elevation of 2,736 meters in the Kali Gandaki River Valley. Due to strong winds that develop later in the day, most flights are scheduled for early morning, and no flights take off after noon. Currently, Tara Air and Summit Air are the only airlines operating on the Pokhara-Jomsom route. Despite booking in advance, flights are often delayed or canceled due to weather conditions, particularly during the winter months when visibility is poor. The flight path from Pokhara follows the Kali Gandaki Gorge, passing through Ghasa, Lete, Tukuche, Marpha, and finally Jomsom.
Thakali Dining Experience in Jomsom
Thakali dining experience offers a unique taste of local culture, centered around the traditional practice of hand-eating. The meals feature organic fruits and vegetables grown on local farms, giving the menu a limited but distinct variety that cannot be replicated. The health benefits, taste, and warmth of Thakali cuisine are unmatched.
A typical Thakali thali (thakali meal plate).
A typical Thakali meal, known as a "Thali," includes Dal (lentil soup), Bhaat (rice), Tarkari (vegetable curry), and Meat, often accompanied by Kanchhemba (buckwheat finger chips), Mustang potatoes topped with Jimbu (Himalayan leaf garlic), and a generous serving of ghee (clarified butter). While desserts are rare, the meal may be finished with sweet curd or Phopké (fermented rice). Unique ingredients, such as Sukuti (dried goat or yak meat), Gundruk (fermented leafy greens) with soybeans, and local spices like timbur, give Thakali cuisine its distinctive flavor. The thali is a vibrant and appealing dish with a variety of colors from pale green dal, green vegetables, red meat, and white rice, complemented by chutneys like mula ko achaar (radish pickle) and fresh tomato chutney.
Crafting and Enjoying Mustang Brandy
The Mustang district, particularly the village of Marpha, is renowned for its fruit production, especially apples. Due to its high-altitude, desert-like environment, the region grows a variety of fruits such as apples, pears, peaches, and plums. While commercial fruit farming is not traditionally common in Nepal, these fruits are plentiful in Mustang and are used to make brandy. Mustang brandy, typically containing 40-45% alcohol, is made by fermenting fruit juice and can be enjoyed over ice or in mixed drinks. Despite being produced in small, low-tech facilities for local consumption, there is significant potential for expanding Mustang's fruit brandy production into a commercial venture for export. Currently, much of the region’s fruit goes unused, often left to rot beneath the trees, highlighting an opportunity for more efficient use of these natural resources.
Jomsom can be reached through various routes.
Visiting Jomsom is an awe-inspiring experience, and many people dream of going there at least once in their lifetime. Fortunately, reaching this Himalayan gem isn’t overly complicated. There are three main ways to get to Jomsom: by flight, by road, and by helicopter. Below is a detailed guide on each option:
By Flight
To reach Jomsom by air, you first need to get to Pokhara, which can be done in two ways: either by taking a flight from Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu to Pokhara Airport, or by driving via bus or private vehicle, with daily bus services departing from Sorakhutte in Kathmandu. Once in Pokhara, you'll catch a 25-minute connecting flight to Jomsom, which follows the spectacular Kali Gandaki Gorge, the deepest gorge in the world. However, the flight can be bumpy and is often subject to weather-related delays or cancellations, so it's essential to plan accordingly.
By Road
There is no direct road link between Kathmandu and Jomsom. To travel by road, you first need to reach Pokhara. Once in Pokhara, you can take a jeep to Jomsom, a journey that typically takes about 7-8 hours. The road can be challenging, with rough terrain, frequent landslide-prone areas, and narrow paths flanked by the Kali Gandaki River on one side and rocky hillsides on the other. The drive is thrilling, but it can be dangerous during the rainy season due to the risk of falling rocks. For safety and comfort, it’s recommended to hire a four-wheel-drive vehicle.
By Trekking and Climbing
For adventure enthusiasts, trekking is another way to reach Jomsom. After departing from Kathmandu by bus, you'll head west along the Prithvi Highway, following the Trishuli River to Dumre. From Dumre, the route continues north, passing Besishahar, from where you can take a jeep to Chame on the Annapurna Circuit and then proceed to Koto for Saribung Peak Climbing, including Lomantang saperately. Alternatively, you can trek through the popular Ghorepani-Poon Hill route or via Beni-Ghasa to reach Jomsom. Another trekking route involves the Upper Dolpo Trek, starting from Jumla, passing through Dunai and Phoksundo Lake, eventually arriving at Jomsom. Each of these routes offers breathtaking views and a rich cultural experience along the way.
